We ran this article one year ago today (December 23, 2009), but since that date, thanks to all of you, we now have over 1,000 more followers on Twitter, and tens of thousands of new visitors who have come to Local In Season. We thought this post was worth dusting off for our new readers, both because we like it, but also because it gives us the opportunity to say THANK YOU for making this last year a terrific one for us at Local In Season.
'Twas
the night before Christmas and all through the house... were the sounds
of "A Christmas Story" playing on the television. Each year there's a
cable channel that delivers 24 hours of Ralphie and his quest for the
Red Rider BB gun. At this point I have seen the movie, or at least
healthy snippets of it, hundreds of times. After so many viewings you
tend to notice many subtle things. One of them is the "in joke" that,
other than Christmas Day, the family eats the same dinner each time we
see them at the table. Meatloaf, mashed potatoes and red cabbage.
The
movie is set in Hammond, Indiana sometime in the late 1930's or early
1940's. Given the time and place it's not far off that they might be
eating that for dinner many nights during a winter stretch. Meatloaf is
American comfort food and even more so, a Midwestern comfort food. The
first residents of Hammond were German farmers newly arrived from
Europe. These European immigrants brought their culinary traditions with
them. Meatloaf is similar to a traditional German, Belgian and Dutch
dish; Falscher Hase or "Mock hare" in German. Not only that, but during
the Great Depression, cooking meatloaf was a way to stretch the food
budget for families so it makes sense that the Parker family would have
it often given the backdrop of a post-Depression /pre-WWII Indiana. At
this time of year, what's local in Indiana isn't that different from
the Boston area. You'd expect to find cabbage, onions, potatoes, kale,
Swiss chard, turnips, squash, Brussel sprouts, etc. Cabbage and
potatoes are a great way to stretch a food dollar - one head of cabbage
shredded can feed an army. I thought it would be fun at this time of
year to re-create the Parker's comfort food staples, with a few updates
of my own. The
recipes below are each adaptiations of some of my favorite versions of
meatloaf, mashed potatoes and red cabbage. The Cook's Illustrated Best
Recipe meatloaf is one I have made for the last few years but it is
slowly evolving into my own version. The greatest mashed potatoes I ever
ate were at Joel Robuchon's restautrant in Paris. This is not his
recipe but I suspect the key is the butter fat content. Lastly,
Houston's restaurant in Boston makes a wonderful braised red cabbage as a
staple side dish. Sweet and sour, I improvised a version that I think
is close. Midwestern comfort food for a cold winter's night! "Christmas Story" Meatloaf (Adapted from Cook's Illustrated New Best Recipe) Ingredients 1.5 - 2 lbs meatloaf mix (ground pork, veal & beef) 1/2 cup oatmeal 1/4 cup bread crumbs 2 large eggs 2 cloves of garlic 1/4 cup sour cream 8 slices thick-cut bacon 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1/4 tsp Tabasco or other hot sauce 4 prunes 1/2 tsp dried or fresh thyme 1/4 cup ketchup 2 Tbsp brown sugar 1 tsp cider vinegar 2 - 3 tsp cognac or brandy Method Preheat
the oven to 350 degrees. Mix the ketchup, brown sugar, cider vinegar
and cognac in a small bowl and set aside. In a small cuisinart or
blender, combine the garlic, sour cream, prunes, thyme, mustard,
Worcesteshire and hot sauce. Cut 2 slices of bacon into 1/2 inch pieces and add to the mix. Blend into a smooth paste. In a large mixing bowl, add the "paste" to the meat loaf mix and then add the 2 eggs, oatmeal and bread crumbs. Work
the mixture with your hands until it is all blended together, roll it
into a ball and transfer it to a large non-stick roasting pan or large
casserole dish. Form the ball into a loaf, about 8x6 inches. Brush the loaf with the some of the ketchup mixture. Arrange the remaining strips of bacon over the meatloaf, overlapping slightly and if possible tucking the ends underneath. Brush it with more of the ketchup mixture. Bake
for about 45 min to 1 hour or until the bacon looks crisp and a meat
thermometer placed into the center reads about 160 degrees. Let rest for about 15 minutes before slicing and serving. Braised Red Cabbage Ingredients One head of red cabbage, cored and sliced thinly 1/2 cup red wine 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar 1/4 cup water 3 - 4 tbsp Sugar Salt & pepper Crumbled goat cheese (optional) Method In
a large skillet with a cover, melt butter over medium heat. Add cabbage
strips and cook until they begin the wilt. Season with salt &
pepper and sprinkle the sugar over the cabbage, tossing to coat it. Add
the wine, vinegar and water to the pan. Turn the heat to medium-low,
cover and cook for about 20 minutes, stirring every few minutes. If the
liquid is completely disappearing, turn to low heat for the last few
minutes. Serve sprinkled with goat cheese. Mashed Potatoes Ingredients 1.5 - 2 lbs of Russet potatoes (or other starchy variety, not waxy - about 4 - 6 potatoes) 1/4 lb unsalted butter (one stick) 1 tbsp kosher salt 2 tbsp Sour Cream 1 bay leaf Salt & pepper Method Fill
a large pot about 1/2 - 2/3 full with water. Add kosher salt and bay
leaf. Wash, peel and cut the potatoes into quarters and place them in
the pot. Place the pot over high heat until water comes to a boil, turn
down to medium high and let simmer for 20 minutes. Strain the potatoes
and remove the bay leaf. Using a potato ricer, "rice" the potato back
into the warm pot. (If you don't have a potato ricer you can just mash
them with a fork; just don't use a blender or food processor.) Chop the
butter into small pieces and add to the warm potatoes. Mix it in with a
fork. Add the sour cream, cracked pepper and about a tsp of salt. Mix
until the ingredients are combined. (If you are going for a less
decadent version, cut the butter in 1/2.) |
Josie makes this comment
Tuesday 29 November, 2011